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π What tariffs mean for sustainability
Published 16 days agoΒ β’Β 4 min read
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Hi Reader,
In this week's CFC newsletter, you'll find:
𧡠A deep dive into what tariffs could mean for sustainable fashion
𧡠San Francisco Climate Week events, a circularity podcast, and industry news
𧡠5 new conscious fashion job opportunities and a grant for women entrepreneurs in sustainability
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πΈ What could tariffs mean for sustainable fashion?
As if this year hasn't been enough of a rollercoaster, this past week has really been throwing me for a loop.
Last Wednesday Trump announced sweeping tariffs on imports to the U.S. and substantially higher-than-expected tariffs on fashion's largest supply chain hubs including a 37% tariff on imports from Bangladesh, 46% for Vietnam, 27% for India, and 20% for the EU β which exports the bulk of the world's luxury fashion.
China, still the largest importer of apparel to the U.S., faces a whopping 125% tariff as of April 9, up from 54% just a week before.
Then, suddenly β literallyas I'm writing this newsletter to you β Trump announced a 90-day pause on tariffs, with the exception of China.
What will happen next? It's anyone's guess. Things could change from now until the time this newsletter hits your inbox. π
But what will (or would) tariffs mean for sustainable fashion?
Here's my take on the good, the bad, and the ugly...
β β1οΈβ£ Resale could continue to rise (the good)
According to ThredUp's 2025 Resale Report, 59% of consumers (and 66% of younger shoppers) said that if tariffs make apparel more expensive they'll seek "more affordable options like secondhand."
And if 2008 was any indicator, resale businesses are posed not just to survive but thrive during an economic slowdown. Nearly two thirds of U.S. secondhand stores surveyed said that their sales increased in 2009.
However some caution that the growing demand for secondhand could also increase prices of preloved fashion. And longer-term, if these tariffs hold and the amount of total apparel supply in the U.S. decreases, we could see a ripple effect on the supply available in the secondhand sector.
β β2οΈβ£ Sustainability may be deprioritized (the bad)
The uncertainty around how long these tariffs will hold and the complexity of apparel supply chains will make it difficult for U.S. fashion brands to make long-term decisions, but experts point to a wide range of strategies brands can and are taking to mitigate tariffs.
Unfortunately, many of these could lead to slowed progress on sustainability efforts.
For example U.S. brands have reportedly already been asking suppliers to cut prices, which labor groups say will squeeze suppliers already operating on slim margins. What will this mean for manufacturers' investments β like transitioning to renewable energy sources? And would a shift in logistics & shipping strategies increase transport emissions? Much is left to be seen.
And while brands with higher margins may be able to absorb increased costs in the short-term, brands with tighter margins (including sustainable fashion brands with higher costs) may be forced to pass along the prices to consumers or reduce costs elsewhere.
This could be a disadvantage to the brands investing in better materials and paying livable wages. Because while some in sustainability have celebrated that fast fashion will get more expensive for U.S. consumers, broadly applied tariffs mean that slow fashion will get more pricey too.
At the end of the day, smaller brands will have less flexibility and resilience to weather the fluctuations.
As the Garment Worker Center shares, what we really need are "smart tariffs tied to labor violations, paired with real protections here and abroad."
β β3οΈβ£ Garment workers would face the brunt (the ugly)
The on-again-off-again nature of the tariffs makes shifting production sourcing unlikely, at least for now.
The larger concern from labor groups is around whether brands will squeeze suppliers, and what that'll mean for garment workers. Bangladesh news outlets reported that several major retailers were either asking suppliers for discounts or wanting them to pay for the tariffs.
These claims are unconfirmed, though if they were to be the case, it could be devastating for garment workers. As ILR's International Labor Institute Director Jason Judd pointed out:β
"Manufacturers cannot bargain energy and material costs, generally. They go to working conditions and wages to maintain their margins, and in countries where worker organizing is suppressed or workers otherwise struggle to win enforcement of basic standards, those standards will slide to protect employersβ margins and jobs."
As Clean Clothes Campaign emphasizes, fashion and textile companies should make sure "not to repeat the mistakes of the Covid pandemic", when brand responses to the crisis prioritized profit over people and "devastated millions of workers already employed on poverty wages."
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β‘οΈ This issue is complex and I certainly do not have all of the answers. I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences as well!
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Until next week,
Elizabeth
Director, Conscious Fashion Collective
P.S. Next week there will be no newsletter from me as I take a little spring break and reset πΈ
CFC Member Mira Musank is helping to bring sustainable fashion to San Francisco Climate Week with a series of Rethink the Runway Events including Threads of Change, a week-long exhibition celebrating the creative force driving sustainable fashion and Fashion Drawing with Zoe Hong, a beginner-friendly 90-minute fashion illustration workshop.
This three-part series from Global Fashion Agenda explores the technical innovations, systemic shifts, and real-world solutions shaping the future of textile recycling. Hear in-depth conversations with leading experts with practical guidance for brands, manufacturers, policymakers, and innovators
π Patagonia joins Brands for Public Lands, a coalition of businesses partnering with nonprofits to defend the sale, defunding, or development of American public lands
π H&M Group reported that they achieved a 41% reduction in Scope 1 and 2 emissions and 24% reduction in Scope 3 emissions in 2024 compared with their 2019 baseline (Sustainability Magazine)
I've shared about this grant opportunity before, but WomensNet gives out monthly business grants to women entrepreneurs, including a Monthly Amber Grant, Monthly Startup Grant, and Monthly Business Category Grant. And April's category is "Sustainability", making it a great time to apply if you haven't yet!
βCurious about what the Conscious Fashion Collective Membership has to offer? Our virtual Open House is a unique chance to get a taste of our vibrant community of sustainable fashion founders and professionals.
You'll get a behind-the-scenes tour, hear from our current members, and get a chance to ask your questions to find out if the CFC Membership is right for you.